Traditional Hungarian Goulash

Hungarian goulash, or gulyasleves, is one of the most recognized dishes in all of European cooking. While the rest of the world often thinks of it as a thick beef stew, in Hungary it is actually a soup. Rich, deeply flavored, and colored a striking red from generous amounts of paprika, real goulash is comfort food at its finest.

The History of Goulash

The word "gulyas" originally referred to Hungarian cattlemen, the herdsmen who drove cattle across the Great Hungarian Plain (the Puszta). During their long journeys, they would cook a simple meal of beef, onions, and whatever vegetables were at hand in a kettle called a bogacs, hung over an open fire.

By the 18th century, paprika had become widely available in Hungary, and it quickly became the defining ingredient of the dish. When the Austro-Hungarian Empire sought a national symbol to differentiate Hungarian culture from Austrian, goulash was elevated to the status of a national dish. It appeared on menus across Vienna and Budapest, eventually spreading throughout Europe.

According to the Wikipedia article on goulash, it was at the 1896 Hungarian Millennium celebrations that the dish was formally showcased as a symbol of national identity.

Authentic Ingredients

True Hungarian goulash relies on a surprisingly short list of ingredients. The key is quality, not quantity. Good beef, real Hungarian paprika, and patience are what separate an excellent goulash from a mediocre one.

Step-by-Step Method

Step 1: Build the Base

Heat the lard in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the diced onions and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until they turn translucent and begin to soften. This should take about 10 to 12 minutes. Do not rush this step, because the sweetness of properly cooked onions forms the backbone of the entire dish.

Step 2: Add the Paprika

Remove the pot from heat for about 30 seconds, then stir in both types of paprika. This is crucial: paprika burns very easily and will turn bitter if added to a hot, dry pan. The residual heat from the onions is enough to bloom the spice and release its essential oils without scorching it.

Step 3: Brown the Beef

Return the pot to medium heat and add the beef cubes. Stir to coat them thoroughly in the paprika-onion mixture. Cook for about 5 minutes until the meat begins to change color on all sides. Add the garlic and caraway seeds, stirring for another minute.

Step 4: Simmer

Add the water or broth, tomatoes, and green peppers. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer for at least 1.5 hours, until the beef is nearly tender. Add the cubed potatoes and continue cooking for another 20 to 25 minutes until everything is soft.

Step 5: Adjust and Serve

Taste for seasoning, adding salt as needed. The soup should be a rich, reddish-orange color with a noticeable paprika warmth. Serve in deep bowls. In Hungary, it is common to eat goulash with fresh bread or csipetke, small pinched pasta dumplings.

Regional Variations

Hungary has several distinct goulash traditions depending on the region:

• Bogracsgulyas (Kettle Goulash): The most traditional form, cooked outdoors in a cast-iron kettle over an open fire. Popular at festivals and family gatherings.
• Szekelygulyas: A richer version from Transylvania that incorporates sauerkraut and sour cream. Named after the Szekely people of eastern Hungary.
• Bableves (Bean Goulash): A variation that adds dried beans, making it heartier and more filling. Common in rural areas.
• Halaszle (Fisherman's Soup): While technically a different dish, the fisherman's soup of Szeged follows similar principles, using river fish and generous paprika in a brothy base.

Where to Try Authentic Goulash

For the most authentic experience, visit Budapest's Great Market Hall (Nagyvasarcsarnok), where stalls on the upper floor serve goulash prepared fresh daily. Outside Budapest, the town of Szolnok on the Tisza River is known for its annual goulash festival, where cooks from across Hungary compete for the title of best bogacs goulash.

For more about Hungarian food culture, the Britannica guide to Hungarian cuisine offers a comprehensive overview of the country's culinary traditions.